Fashion in Japan. Now and Then

Japan, a nation renowned for its rich cultural heritage and timeless traditions, has undergone a fascinating transformation in the realm of fashion. From the restrained elegance of traditional attire to the vibrant styles and fabriC that defines modern Japanese fashion, this blog post explores the dynamic evolution of Japan's sartorial landscape, celebrating the diversity that characterises the current fashion scene.

Traditional Elegance: A Glimpse into the Past

Historically, Japanese fashion was marked by a sense of uniformity and adherence to traditional garments like the kimono and hakama trousers. The emphasis was on modesty and simplicity, reflecting the cultural values of harmony and balance. While undeniably beautiful, this traditional attire left little room for individual expression, as conformity was highly valued. So, How has Japanese fashion changed over time? “Western styles, called yōfuku, started creeping into Japanese fashion in the 1850s. At first, only men wore Western clothing for business. As time went on, Western clothing became more and more common in other settings. After World War II, Western fashion spread as the main attire throughout Japan.” -Family Search.

In Japan's Edo period (1600s to mid-1800s), kimonos were the everyday attire, reflecting one's social class. Contrary to their contemporary formal associations, kimonos were often recycled and patched for practical use. In the later Edo period, government restrictions prompted a shift to plain-patterned kimonos like stripes and checks, emphasising the adaptability and social subtleties embedded in traditional clothing during this transformative era. Also In the Edo period, samurai donned a kamishimo, a three-piece ensemble featuring an outer coat, inner kimono, and a split skirt. Meanwhile, kabuki actors, aiming for dramatic flair, wore boldly patterned kimonos with symbolic designs that complemented the stage setting, adding depth and meaning to their performances.

During the Meiji era (mid-1800s to early 1920s), Japan experienced significant changes, including the influence of Western culture on fashion. While kimonos remained common, Western clothing gained popularity, especially for formal occasions. A notable trend emerged, with individuals often donning a mix of Western and traditional attire, such as wearing a button-up shirt beneath a kimono. Accessories like Western handbags and umbrellas also became commonplace. Towards the end of the Meiji era and the beginning of the Taisho era, girls began wearing "hakama," traditionally male formal wear, over kimonos. This unique style, now popularized for college girls' graduation ceremonies, witnessed a trend of pairing hakamas with Western shoes, a departure from the traditional kimono-style sandals. Despite the brief duration of the Taisho era, its fashion landscape reflected the enduring impact of Meiji-era transformations.

Meiji Period

From the 1930s, Hanshinkan, the region between Osaka and Kobe, emerged as a cultural crucible. It was notably influenced by its connection to the Kobe Port. Middle-class women in this area, exposed to Western cultures, became pioneers of "Hanshinkan Modernism." Embracing Western clothing and modern lifestyles, these women, renowned for their glamorous aesthetic, ignited a transformative fusion of East and West. This movement, spanning the Meiji to Showa periods. not only did it redefine Japanese fashion but also permeated various aspects of daily life, becoming a catalyst for Japan's modern fashion industry. Today, Hanshinkan Modernism stands as a lasting legacy, symbolizing the harmonious synthesis of traditional Japanese elements and global influences in shaping the nation's cultural identity. “Since international trade began between Japan and the United States, Japan has been one of the primary sources of global fashion inspiration. However, Japanese fashion has experienced external influences as well. ”- Zen Market.

Here is a link to a video from the 1930s explaining the use of different kimonos.

https://glamourdaze.com/2021/11/women-in-japan-kyoto-1930-ai-enhanced-fashion.html

Contemporary Kaleidoscope: The Modern Japanese Fashion Scene

Fast forward to the present day, and Japan has become a global fashion powerhouse, known for its eclectic and diverse styles. Tokyo, in particular, has emerged as a fashion mecca, with districts like Harajuku and Shibuya showcasing a kaleidoscope of trends, from avant-garde street fashion to sleek, minimalist aesthetics. The rise of Japanese street style, documented by fashion photographers and influencers, has played a pivotal role in bringing global attention to the nation's diverse fashion landscape.

During the late 1980s to the early 2000s, "Loose Socks" became a notable trend among high school girls. These were intentionally baggy socks worn with school uniforms, initially as a response to strict uniform regulations. Originally improvised by purchasing larger socks, the trend gained momentum, leading to the production of purposefully designed loose socks by stores. Despite schools occasionally banning them, the rebellious spirit persisted, prompting girls to bring loose socks to change into after school, embracing this fashion statement beyond the confines of the classroom. also during this time, you couldn't miss the Gyaru girls strutting around. They rocked deep tans, bleached hair, miniskirts, and makeup that made their eyes pop. Gyaru wasn't just a fashion thing—it was a whole vibe. These girls had a specific way of talking and acting, creating a cool subculture that's still around today, minus the deep tans. “If you walked the streets back in the 90s or early 2000s, you couldn’t miss the girls walking around with deep tans, bleached hair, miniskirts, and make-up that would accentuate the eyes” -itsyozine.

On to today’s fashion in Japan, we have to thank the internet. The lines of strictly Japanese fashion have become wonderfully blurred. Strolling the streets today reveals an array of styles, from clean cuts and high-waisted bottoms to long coats and easy-flowing casual wear. Among the diverse fashion scenes are notable styles like Amekaji, drawing inspiration from American casual wear, Yamagirl, a women's fashion trend with a focus on outdoor gear brands (Yama meaning mountain), and Normcore, a style that leans into minimalistic fashion. The internet's global influence has transformed Japanese streets into a vibrant canvas of varied and eclectic styles. The minimalistic fashion is the look you’ll see the most and hear the most about when you go to Japan. Uniqlo is a great example of what the majority of the population wears.

Now, due to the west influencing many trends in Japan, subcultures have also reached the streets of Japan. One notifiable one is Goth. From the anime’s of death note and Nana, goth and punk fashion plays a big role is Japanese fashion. Big designers like Rei Kawakubo of Comme De Garcons, Kei Ninomiya and Yohji Yamamoto are inspired by the avant guard looks with a dark aesthetic. Nana introduced the punk brand Vivienne Westwood to Japan on a large scale. It had such a huge impact that Vivienne Westwood Japan has its own designs that can sell for thousands on the second hand market. “Perhaps we can’t call it a “revival,” because neither Vivienne Westwood nor NANA have ever faded from the spotlight. However, there has been a recent resurgence of interest in an intersection between the English punk fashion brand and the Japanese shōjo manga series — an unlikely combination at first glance, but completely understandable upon further research.” -60 seconds Magazine. “The outfits showcased in Nana are heavily inspired by early Harajuku subcultures [Gyaru and Mori-Girl] plus Vivienne Westwood's pioneering punk designs, which gained traction in Japan during the 90s-00s.“ -Sabukaru

While taking inspiration from the west, Japanese fashion tends to look back to its past for clothing ideas. Many fashion icons of japan wear traditional clothing with their own twist like wearing kimonos but with corsets and aprons instead of an obi belt. Some wear hakama trousers with loose fitting shirts and less traditional kimonos as jackets. Some brands even incorporate traditional Japanese tailoring in their designs with a modern twist. This is what makes Japanese fashion amazing.

The more colourful side to Japanese fashion is the street styles that come out of Harajuku. Harajuku isn't confined to a single style; rather, it embodies a melting pot of diverse fashion expressions. While it encompasses almost every conceivable fashion style, the essence of Harajuku fashion centers around two key principles – fostering a sense of community and championing freedom of expression.

The modern Japanese fashion scene not only embraces diverse styles but also champions inclusivity. Fashion movements like genderless fashion are challenging societal norms, encouraging a more fluid and inclusive approach to clothing. The emphasis is on self-expression, and individuals are free to explore and celebrate their unique identities through their fashion choices.

Diversity in Expression

One of the most striking aspects of contemporary Japanese fashion is its celebration of diversity. Designers and fashion enthusiasts alike are breaking free from the constraints of traditional norms, experimenting with bold colors, avant-garde silhouettes, and a fusion of Western and Japanese influences. Brands like Comme des Garçons and Issey Miyake have become synonymous with pushing the boundaries of conventional fashion, embracing the ethos that individuality should be celebrated rather than subdued.

Conclusion: A Tapestry of Self-Expression

In tracing the evolution of Japanese fashion, from the restrained elegance of tradition to the vibrant diversity of today, it becomes clear that Japan's fashion landscape is a tapestry of self-expression. The embrace of individuality and the celebration of diverse styles mark a profound shift in the nation's sartorial narrative. As Japan continues to evolve as a global fashion influencer, the harmony between tradition and modernity is beautifully reflected in the myriad ways individuals choose to express themselves through clothing.